Goobye Nicaragua. Hello Costa Rica and Panama!

What better time to travel than now? After completing Peace Corps service, Peace Corps rewards its volunteers with a "readjustment allowance," to help them with the transition into life after PC, which is a little money that can go toward an apartment not made of mud, clothing that is rat-bite free, or for a bit of traveling before returning. On top of this,  I am used to developing-country standards regarding transport, housing, and convenience (amongst other things)  and therefore am apt to handle any travel conditions. (Is air-mail the quickest and cheapest way to get to Peru? I'm in! I'll pop out of that box refreshed and ready to go.) Also, I can speak spanish and have been living in a Latin American country for two years From my experience so far, language is one of the most important factors for being accepted into a culture, and basic communication is essential for not getting stuck in tourist traps with other gringos the whole time. Natives seem to appreciate when a foreigner makes an effort to learn the language of the country they are visiting, and it can make a huge difference in one's visit. With those factors in mind, I decided to buy a plane ticket returning stateside from Peru on July 19. Let the little adventures abroad continue! 

-Being a tourist in Nicaragua for the first time: 

It was liberating being freed of work, with nothing but exploration on my horizon. I took Frances on her final death bus ride from Managua to the southern department of San Jorge, the port city, and took a ferry to the famous Ometepe. It's incredible how Nicaragua's finest tourist attractions and still so raw. It is a beautiful yet extremely underdeveloped country, which can be off-putting. Only the most hardcore tourists deserve to enjoy the beauty of this country, and must be prepared to take cold showers, sleep in hot rooms without air-conditioning, or take a ride in a taxi that would pass car safety standards (but 99% of the time, it's fine!). To enjoy Nicaragua, one has to be prepared to break the rules, because we just kind of make them up as we go. With that being said, Frances and I were able to rent scooters after a 5 minute tutorial (as neither of us have ever driven them), and cruise the roads that figure-8 the two volcanoes, I highly recommend renting dirtbikes or scooters on the island, as there is so much too and visit, and being the boss of your timetable allows you to enjoy activities more. After Ometepe, Frances and I went to the infamous San Juan del Sur, one of the most world-renowned spots in Nicaragua. In my opinion, Nicaragua has so much more to boast than bars full of drunken surfers, but if one has the time, might as well check it out, there are several beautiful beaches near that area. It was an appropriate way to start my non-PC time in Nicaragua by visiting one of the most gringo-y places in the country after renting scooters, something prohibited by PC policy. Whoo, rebel!!

Scooters on Ometepe with the active volcano Concepcion in the background

-From a chicken bus to the Tica Bus: 

Stop number one- Costa Rica! To get to Costa Rica from Nicaragua, one can fly, or take the much cheaper, 7 hour bus ride from Rivas, Nicaragua, to San Jose, Costa Rica. The bus is air conditioned, takes bathroom breaks, and has enough seats for passengers; therefore it was already classified as luxury status in my book. Frances, Blake and I begin our dream team travels the morning of Monday, June 10. Border crossing wasn't hard for us, although I hear that Costa Rica wants to see that people entering their country have a definite plan to leave it. Therefore, if your plane or bus ticket is only one way, you NEED to show them that you have a flight or bus out. Plan accordingly. If this doesn't get in your way, the border crossing is relatively painless. We took Tica Bus, there is also Nica Express and Trans Nica, all air-conditioned, and therefore wonderful. Note: pack a parka for the buses. 

Clothing necessary for buses

-San Jose for the night:

Alas! After a smooth ride, Frances, Blake and I arrive in San Jose, Costa Rica. It was cold!! When we first arrived, I actually had no idea that were had actually reached our destination (I hadn't been to San Jose in over two years) but got off the bus because everyone else was doing it. San Jose, Costa Rica, we had arrived! We saw clean streets, and people forming lines to get on the public transportation. Blake had tears of joy in his eyes as he watched passengers orderly wait in line to get on the bus. We only had the afternoon in San Jose, as the next day we had a shuttle arranged to take us the the beautiful Bocas del Torro, a Carribean archipelago of Panama. My friend Frances had come and roughed it with me for a week in my Nicaraguan territory, and now it was time for her to show me Bocas, where she lived and worked for 7 months starting May 2011.Therefore, we spent our one day in San Jose walking around the central area, which has a beautiful national theater building. We stayed at the same hostel I'd stayed at before with Frances and Matt (shoutout Matt Straney!) when we came 3 years ago, Pangea, which was actually the first hostel I'd ever stayed in (the first of many!). The hostel had hot water! Development at its finest...

-From Costa Rica to Panama

DIY is definitely the way to go for cutting out extravagant tour agency fees, but is oh-so-worth-it sometimes to not have to think about 3 bus transfers and the logistics of a ten-hour trek, which is what we had ahead of us to get from San Jose, Costa Rica, to Bocas del Torro, Panama. In this case, Frances had worked for us us a $45 deal on a  normally $70 dollar trip so we said "done!" We got picked up in a sweet micro-van and cruised through Costa Rica to it's famous Puerto Viejo. On the way in, I noticed that the country was incredibly lush, and the country was so vibrantly green. I hope it's started raining in Nicaragua....

Isla Zapateria

Spelunking

Starfish on Starfish Beach 

After lunch Puerto Viejo (San Jose-Puerto is 5-6 hours, depending of labor strikes and traffic, which we encountered), we hopped on another bus to Changiola, the Costa Rica border town. Crossing the border consisted of walking a decrepit bridge over the Sixaola river while Panama waited on the other side.        

-Panama fever

The border to Panama

If someone asks you to go to Bocos del Torro, Panama, do it! It is one of the most unique places I have ever been. We stayed in the rainforest hostel with the resort where Frances used to work on Isla Bastimentos (the main island is called Isla Colon), and every day had the option of adventure or leisure. I liked that although caters to tourists, the culture of the native people is still present, as we saw when we went to Bastimentos town for lunch with a few of France's family friends. "Mami" welcomed us in her home and served us a whole fish, with huge side of coconut rice, spagetti, and salad and it was one of the most enjoyed meals I'd ever had. On top of a great culture, these islands have spelunking in secret caves, pristine rainforests, sloth-spotting, starfish beaches and water-taxis as the main method of transportation. Who wouldn't want to take a boat to the bar?   

After losing Frances in Bocas (sad face), Blake and I were destined for Panama City. From Bocas, it is a short ten hour bus ride, which we had reserved tickets for a week in advance. Therefore, it was a little disheartening as we got to our water taxi to take us to the mainland we were given back our money, without bus tickets, and told that "our reservation still existed at the bus station." We got to the bus, and both night buses were full. Thankfully, our new friend Canadian Bill told us about a city 6 hours away where buses left for Panama City at more frequent intervals. David, Panama, here we come!

Frances and I being exhausted after vacationing too hard

We arrived at David around 9:45 pm, just in time for the 10pm bus. Which was also full. Who knew that so many people would be traveling to Panama City the Monday night after Father's Day? There was a 12 am bus that still had availability, so Canadian Bill, Blake and I signed right up. Panama has great buses for long distance travel, and I got my first double-decker bus experience, it was sweet! After a red-eye ride, we role into Panama City around 7:30am with our mochilas and a desire to see the famous canal. 

Boat crossing Panama Canal

I learned a lot our day in Panama City. Number one: that is canal viewing area of Miraflores Locks doesn't open until 9 am. Also, the interworking of the canal is incredible, and speaks volumes of mankind's power to manipulate nature. Just look up how to locks of the canal work. We were lucky enough to get there right ships were crossing the Miraflores Lock, and got to see the system in action. Panama City is a neat place; it has the part of town comparable to Miami with towering skyscrapers, but also the beautiful "Casco Viejo" (or old town) that has cobblestone streets and a wonderful ambience. Not to mention a "mercado de mariscos" where you can get $2 ceviche of any flavor and a huge plate of red snapper or sea bass for $6 bucks. I am going back to Panama City just for that one day. There is also a beautiful walkway along the water that connects the old city with the skyscrapers, highly recommended for those who wish to run off that fried snapper and patacones the next morning.

Panama City Fish Market 

A little ketchup.

Por fin, after over 2 and a half years of living in Nicaragua working as a PC Volunteer, I have completed my service and am moving on. Since March, I had been tying up loose ends by ending projects and preparing myself, townspeople and other friends for my departures ("Yes, I am leaving.. Next month actually! No I won't be coming back the next week. I could never for you!". When the majority of my group of Nica 58 left (of the 15 to complete service, 3 extended for a year, 11 left around March 28, and I was "held back" for a few months), I was by no means prepared to end my PC service. I still had projects to finish, best friends (and mothers) to visit, lots of items to give away, and people to say goodbye to. It was advantageous to have my friends in Nica 58 give me advice on how to prepare my delayed COS, what signatures are the hardest to get or what is the hardest get done in the office. Thanks to their advice and lots of prep time, when June 4 came, I was ready to go.

As those of you who have moved know, it's not easy. It amazes me how many possessions I had accumulated in my two years, they must not have been essential nick-nacks either, as I was still living out of a suitcase in year one. It was quite liberating ridding myself of unnecessary goods, which I had more of than I'd like to admit (sometimes, kids would come into my house, look at my shoes under my bed, and ask if I had a store). It's amazing how much stuff we think we need to have, and how many things we actually need. I want to keep this lesson in my mind when I return to the States; there is a balance between having too spartan a lifestyle and distracting ourselves with excessive goods. That balance is different for everyone but we must always take a second to step back and evaluate ourselves (not others!). I suppose I will always myself a real coffee maker when I get back to the states, this sock-filter-thing is starting to look a little drab. I will not however, buy 3 coffee machines for myself to eliminate having to walk to another room for coffee. It's all about balance people.

With this in mind, I was able to give away enough things to pack up my past two years of life in 3 bags, which I sent back with my incredible mother. She had graciously agreed to visit one last time to soak in the glory of San Fernando, and to smuggle coffee, rum and other essential items back into the states. I couldn't have brought back the wild chicken mask that I won in my first half-marathon, ceramic gifts from friends, or authentic Nicaraguan hammocks without her help, and I will be forever grateful for her presence in my final weeks. It was also amazing getting to share my life here with her (as it has been with everyone who has visited me, I have the best friends ever!!); she got to experience the wonderful (and not so great) sides of Nicaragua, a simple (yet beautiful, as my friend Caro told me after roughing it with me) way of life, and now understands a new perspective. Therefore, it was necessary for her to experience cold showers, ungodly amounts of smoke, and latrines.

Now to goodbyes... Two years is ample time to form many relationships and friendships. I have met incredible people here and made of my best friends. Yet I had to say goodbye. It was a little sad, but not the worst. In this day and age, many "goodbyes" are in reality, not goodbyes at all, but instead a "let's keep in touch" on facebook, instagram, or whatever you kids are doing nowadays. I am going to have to get a smartphone when I get stateside; I don't think my razor can download WhatsApp. It's incredible how technology allows my brother to talk to my parents face-to-face from Istanabul, Turkey, or how I can call my friends to catch up from the wifi at my neighbors house (who now have a classy NC coffee mug as a token of my appreciation.) In this day and age, going to live far away from a person doesn't have to mean goodbye, but instead, see you later. (One of my favorite cheesy lines.. Also see: HAGS, LYLAS, BFF)

On June 5, 2014, I did the ceremonious "ringing of the best." It is when a PCV, after doing their final medical reviews, submitting their official description of service, completing their exit interviews with bosses, and obtaining clearance signatures,  triumphantly rings a bell in the middle of the PC office to symbolize the completion of their service. To prepare for this, I left my site on June 4 on the 6:30 am bus, which was of course, packed well beyond capacity. Thankfully, after two years, I had established a friendship with the bus crew, and was able to get 3 seats reserved for my mother, my visiting friend Frances, and myself. Our luggage was delicately thrown above, and we were squeezed inside. Even with seats, the strong smell of humans packed in a small space like cattle was palpable, and I was pleased by the fact that this was to be my final San Fernando-Managua bus ride, as was Frances. My mother seemed to have found her zen. When I glanced over 2.5 hours in on the 5 hour bus ride, she seemed to be unfazed by the puking babies in the seats in front and behind her. I was so proud of her. Wednesday afternoon was my final medical interview, and medics were very proud of me for having serviced my service without having contracted dengue, scabies, and only a few cases of stomach amoebas or parasites. In my two years, I´d only had a skin fungus, one ant bite to the eardrum, and no major medical emergencies. Heck, I was a golden volunteer! Since PC is funded by the US government, there weresome bureaucracies     to address, so it was nice having Wednesday to finish beaucratic obligations, such as verifying that I have no outstanding debts, saying that I would only fly American Airlines, and yadda yadda. So, when Thursday morning rolled around, I was ready! I turned in my cell phone chip to Eynard, PC Nicaragua's techie, and I ran to the stairwell where the bell hangs. I gave a big shout, grabbed the bell, and clanged away. All PC staff and volunteers in the office rang outside to clap and congratulate me, it was a very special moment. This was it The end of an era. I had been preparing for this for a very long time, and at last the moment came. After over two and a half years of living in Nicaragua, I had successfully completed service as a Peace Corps Volunteer, and now I was done. Was I sad? I suppose a little, as it is always a little bit sad to end an era of your life that has been good to you, but more so than sad, I was excited and ready to begin the next era. My time in Peace Corps has allowed me to form unforgettable relationships with natives and other US citizens, prepared me for the next phase of my life, allowed me to grow up, and taught me invaluable life lessons that I will forever cherish.

Sideways picture of me ringing the bell

Note: Next posts will be from various countries, as I travel Latin America for a month before heading stateside!

What We Take for Granted.

The entirety of one’s Peace Corps service allows for much self-reflection, and I have been especially nostalgic as the end of my service nears. My health group, “Nica 58,” officially ends its 27-month commitment March 28, 2014, but I will be extending until June 6, 2014 in order to finish a series of workshops that I am organizing and facilitating with nurses for volunteer health workers from rural communities that is funded with a grant from USAID.) With my emotions ranging from excited to go yet sad to leave  Nicaragua, I have found myself vacillating from one end to the other. Therefore, I have compiled two conflicting lists, one consisting of the many amenities that we have in America that I cannot wait to get back to, and another of the many things that I will miss from my second home.

As a disclaimer, I would like to state that this first list may look pessimistic, but it is followed by another list of the many things Nicaragua has got right that America could learn from. Therefore, when people ask me “Which country is better?” I say that is not a question that has a definitive answer, as each has its own set of advantages and disadvantages. I have many Nicaraguan friends who went to the United States to work legally for long enough to save just enough money to get back to Nicaragua and live comfortably. They appreciated the States but Nicaragua was their end goal. The Nicaraguan lifestyle is more relaxed and less stressful. In the States, we cram our lives with work, while still making time for happy hour. We don’t sleep. Some can’t sleep, others stay up late playing on their gadgets or watching the latest shows. Others simply continue working. The United States and Nicaragua have many similarities, but are ultimately very different; one is not better than the other and both should be appreciated for what they are.

Ok, here is goes…

Things we take for granted in the United States (in no particular order).

·     * Enforced maximum capacity limits and safety regulations on public transportation: In the States, we have standards for public transportation. Buses usually come with air-conditioning and guaranteed seats with a ticket. Here, I travel on “Broward County” elementary school buses that were donated in the 1990s. There are not enough buses and many times it is an unpleasant ride. I have stood for five-hour bus rides, and sitting three-deep in a seat made for two elementary students is not uncommon. I have been puked on (gallo-pinto is not pretty coming up), been a victim of theft, been accosted, made friends, held unknown babies, and dodged belligerently drunk men on the buses. And my parents wonder why I hitchhike… (Don’t tell PC!)

·      *Animal Control: Animals are not pets here. They are items, picked up by humans at whim, and the responsibilities of owning an animal are discarded like trash out the crowded bus window. We have a dog, named Gabby, affectionately nick-named Crabby-Gabby by all English speakers that have met her. She is the only dog that has been with my family my entire two years in San Fernando. I have witnessed the birth (and death) of four others. I am attacked by dogs on 80% on the runs that I go on, and my mom can tell you horror stories about the gangs of dogs in heat that roam my town at night. The NGOs that give free animal neutering and spaying are doing a wonderful service for the animals and the humans around them, and I would like to invite them to northern Nicaragua. If not, just give me the tools, I’ll figure it out.

·     * Indoor plumbing/Reliable water source: Many of my PCV friends take the legendary “bucket bath” their entire 2 years of service because they do not have running water -especially those Ag volunteers. I must admit I am not as hardcore as them, since I have one faucet, one sink, a shower, and a toilet in my house. However, it is not uncommon for the water to stop working in entire towns for days on end, which can get especially rough during the dry season. One of my favorite memories in site is going with Jessica, one of my closest woman-friends, to the river to bathe, although I think we actually came out dirtier. Can you imagine if the water in your house or town went out for the next few hours? Now try the next few days?

·      *Reliable power: Just like running water, the electricity in this country is a fickle friend. “Se fue la luz” (the light went away) with a shrug of the shoulders is a common phrase here, and we have to accept it. It can strike at any moment and can last for indeterminable periods of time. It has happened to me when I hosted “movie night” with my youth group (they ate the popcorn but did not enjoy that movie), had been cooking with an electric stove, (is there such thing as “egg-sushi?), and during the evening (hence my occasional 7:30pm bedtime).  Remember when the electricity for the SuperBowl went away for thirty minutes, and the country was in uproar? Ha! Here, it’s just another day in the life. Oh look! The lights just came back on!!

·      *Hot water: A little piece of my soul dies with every cold shower I take…

·      *Food diversity: I guarantee that you, sitting there with your laptop, smart phone, tablet, etc, have access to at least three different ethnic food options within twenty minutes of you. You have “alternative” or health food options. The culture here does not cater to that, dining out is an expense that many can not afford; therefore there is not a demand for cafes, Japanese steakhouses, or Taco Bells (there is not even a Taco Bell in this country) This makes PCVs get more creative with the preparation of their food (I’ve learned how to make homemade peanut-butter and pesto, among other things) but wouldn’t it be so nice to walk into a Whole Foods store after meeting up with friends for sushi….

·      *Running in shorts as a girl: The running culture has yet to catch on in the more rural areas. My town thinks I am always sprinting away in fear of something (probably the dogs!!).

·      *Expecting good customer service: In the States, I’ve already heard such emphasis on “satisfaction guaranteed!” and “the customer is always right!” Here, I bought a “new” cell phone from a company representative that didn’t work, and guess what, I had to eat the costs. What?!? Isn’t there a hotline I can call and whine to, and then I’ll get a new iphone? Nope, actually, no one cares if you aren’t happy with your experience, you shouldn’t have been stupid enough to get conned, been lured onto a bus going the opposite direction, or ordered food that the cook didn’t feel like preparing (beef is almost the same thing as fish, just eat it and quit trying to send it back.)

·      *Education opportunities: As much as we whine about our educational system in the US, it’s amazing. For the most part, teachers have experience and have degrees in their field; teachers with math degrees, teach math, not art. Students are taught critical thinking skills.  Kids go to school from 8am-3pm, and have a certain number of days that HAVE to be taught. Here, the days last from 7:30am-12pm or 12:30pm-5pm, and accordingly to nonofficial studies of PCVs that work in the classroom, 50% of scheduled classes are cancelled due to national holidays, fairs, meetings, or the teacher’s personal issues. Even if the teacher is experienced in their field (and hasn’t just been switched from math to literature at whim) and cares about the students’ education, the structure of the education system puts these kids and their teachers at a disadvantage before they have even begun.

·      *The highway transportation system: The other week, I saw a dead horse in the middle of the highway. It had been plastered by the truck I saw with the broken windshield 30 meters up the road. I see semi-trucks passing semi-trucks, both emitting black fumes and neither passing safety standards for emissions. Driving rules, when they exist, are not respected. Never in the States had I seen a mother, father, and their two kids in between them on a motorcycle.

·      *Accessible Internet: Every blog I write, I write from out random locations, save them onto my computer, and wait until the opportune moment of internet access presents itself. Some PC Nicaragua volunteers have wifi from their homes (and they probably have jobs by now), but I yearn for the day when I can send an email when I want. Oh America, the land of milk and wifi….

·      *Mass communication: Want to send a funny email to your colleagues?  When only 80% of people have cell phones, and that damned 1% has internet, good luck getting that message out. Smoke signals or messenger pigeons are your best bet to tell someone about that meeting tomorrow at noon.

·      *Recycling Programs/Environmental Awareness: Although America is one of the top producers of greenhouse gases and trash in the world, there are many program in place to alleviate the problem. My favorite weekend activity as a child was going to the Gilkey Recycling Center with my dad to put green glass in the recycling container with other green glass and throw plastic bottles in the container with other plastic bottles. We were doing our part to keep the world greener! I remember seeing multiple trash-cans on the street, one for every possible material to encourage recycling. Here, there are not recycling programs (although I have seem some in gringo-y areas, such as Corn Island). It hurts me every time I see a plastic bottle in the trash-can. Environmental awareness is a new idea here, when kids are done with their candy, they throw the wrapper on the ground. Trash is usually burned, as many towns do not have reliable trash services. The geography and natural landscape of Nicaragua is absolutely beautiful (just ask anyone who has come to visit!), yet the importance of protecting it is lost.

·      *The presence of toilet paper in people’s houses and public facilities: A seasoned Nicaraguan brings toilet paper with them everywhere they go. Most of the time it is not in home bathrooms, and never in public restrooms. I have to bring toilet paper with me to the bathroom in my own house.

·      *Extracurriculars and hobbies: Most people here do not have the luxury of leisure-time. After washing clothes (by hand) all day, chopping firewood, maintaining a fire for hours to cook beans, waiting hours for packed buses or walking miles in a day, most people don’t have the energy to learn how to play guitar or read books and contemplate existential matters. My brother once mentioned Aristotle’s idea of “the responsibility of leisure,” which has stuck in my mind ever since. It is the idea that those who have the privilege of free time have a responsibility to use that free time to better themselves intellectually and, in turn, humanity. While many people here are focusing on day-to-day survival, we have the privilege of being able to dedicate time to enriching our minds and communities. Therefore, we should not abuse or waste it.

Remember, these are things that I will appreciate so much more when I return to the States. However, there are a multitude of qualities that Nicaragua and its society has that I never experienced in America, and I will miss these dearly.

Things I will miss about Nicaragua:

·      *The best tasting tropical fruit: I did not like bananas until I came here. To ensure that bananas arrive to the States appropriate for consumption, they are cut prematurely and shipped to the States. They may look yellow, but never had the time to properly ripen and develop the sweet, wonderful flavor that bananas have here. During March, April, and May, I can walk into my backyard and hunt a delicious mango. I have eaten here at least 5 different types of fruits and vegetables that I never knew existed (mamones, jocote, nancite, anyone?).

·      *That 10 cent cup of coffee: ..or that $40 rent. That $4 pedicure. I am nervous for my transition back. (You want $10 for lunch?!?! That is outrageous!!)

·      *Walking down main street with a donkey on your side.

·      *Running the back mountain roads of northern Nicaragua: It’s moments like those where I think about where I am, what I am doing, and I feel so good about life. It’s pretty cool.

·      *The sense of community: I am able to pop into someone’s house unannounced to have a chat, drink a coffee, or watch soap operas. The majority of Nicaraguan towns still have that “small-town friendly” feel because, well, they are small towns.

·      *Asking your neighbor for some sugar: It is perfectly acceptable to pop you head into Doña Silvia’s house while cooking and ask for some tortillas or beans.

·      *My outhouse: I know that indoor plumbing was on the list of things I can’t wait to get back too, but I’ll actually miss my outhouse a lot. It’s so peaceful out there in the morning.

·      *Normal portion sizes: When I first got to this country, I kept thinking that the family restaurants were underfeeding us, (which I couldn’t complain about since meals cost 1-3 dollars). Yet I realized, I was perfectly satiated without the super-size-me-hamburger and 60-ounce Coca-Cola. I actually felt a lot better about not spending $15 on a portion size I could never hope to eat but hated to waste. We have gotten used to outrageous and unnecessary portion sizes.

·      *Hitchhiking: It is so common here. I was nervous my first time hopping into the back of a stranger’s truck, but there is only one highway, and everyone is usually empathetic and open enough to let any traveller in their extra space. It’s one of the quickest and cheapest ways to get around. Nevertheless, once I’m stateside, I don’t think that it will be socially acceptable or safe to stick my finger out and hop in the back of any random car.

·      *The pristine sunsets over Nicaragua’s numerous beautiful backdrops. Whether it’s coastline, mountains, or tropical rivers by the jungle, they are incredible.

·       

There you have it- a bit of reflection after a couple years in country.